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Frequently Asked Questions
Have you ever had a question about extended warranties, powertrain warranties, or engine lights? Browse through our Frequently Asked Questions page to find the answer!
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Useful Facts
Gain insight into some of the most common problems and fixes for your vehicle. Before you consult the experts, see if the answer you're looking for is right here. Not only will this section inform you on all things mechanical that can affect your vehicle, but there are many answers to questions you may have about high octane fuel, changing windshield wipers, and even pairing your phone to the Bluetooth of your dash.
If you don't find the answer you're looking for here, feel free to contact one of our specialists today. At Listowel Honday, we're happy to help and make sure you get an answer that puts your mind at ease.

FOLLOW THESE SIMPLE STEPS TO FIX THE PROBLEM AND BE ON YOUR WAY IN NO TIME... SAFETY FIRST:
- Find a spot to pull over. If you're on the highway, getting off is the safest bet, even if you have to drive on a blown tire. Otherwise, pull as far onto the shoulder as possible.
- Don't park in the middle of a curve, where approaching vehicles can't see you.
- Choose a flat spot, as jacking up your vehicle on a hill can be a disaster waiting to happen.
- If you have a manual transmission, leave your car in gear.
- Be sure to set your parking brake.
- Turn on your hazard lights.
- Get the Jack, Wrench, and Spare Tire from the vehicle (normally in the trunk), and bring them over to the tire that is flat. Use other tools or supplies if necessary.
- Use the Wrench to loosen the lug nuts.
- You may need to remove the hubcap. Don't remove the lug nuts at ths point, simply loosen them by turning the Wrench to the left (counter-clockwise).
- If the lug nuts are really tight, try placing the wrench on the nut and standing on the wrench arm to use your full weight on it.
- You can also try hitting the wrench arm with a rock.
- Use the Jack to lift the vehicle off the ground.
- Different models may have different places to put the Jack; consult your owner's manual for specific locations.
- Once the Jack is securely in the correct spot, jack up the vehicle until the tire is about six inches off the ground.
- Remove the lug nuts and pull the tire off of the vehicle.
- Make sure to place the lug nuts in a place where they won't get scattered, and pull the tire straight toward yourself to remove it from the wheel base.
- Place the Spare Tire on the vehicle.
- Line up the lug nut posts with the holes in the Spare Tire, and push the Spare Tire all the way onto the wheelbase until it can't go any further.
- Put on the lug nuts.
- Don't put them on tightly, just make sure they're on enough for the Spare Tire to stay on the vehicle for a moment.
- Lower the vehicle back to the ground.
- Use the Jack to bring the vehicle back down to ground level.
- Remove the Jack from underneath the car.
- With the vehicle back on the ground, you can now tighten the lug nuts. MAKE SURE THE LUG NUTS ARE TIGHTENED.
- Rather than tightening the lug nuts one at a time, start with one lug nut and tighten it about 50%, then move to the opposite nut (across the circle) and tighten this one about 50% as well.
- Keep tightening opposite lug nuts gradually in turn until each lug nut is as tight as it can be.
- Put your flat tire and tools back in your trunk, or where you got them from.
- Make sure you don't leave anything on the side of the road.
- First, make sure that you are parked on level ground, for the most accurate reading.
- Next, safely prop your hood open and find the dipstick (which generally has a brightly coloured handle, usually orange, and has the word OIL labeled on them).
- Pull the dipstick out and wipe it down with a towel or rag, and then replace it into the engine, making sure that it goes all the way in.
- Now, pull the dipstick back out, and be sure NOT to turn the stick upside down as the oil will run causing an inaccurate reading. The dipstick will have two marks on the bottom (usually lines or holes in the stick), and you can read the oil level by looking to see where the oily section and dry section meet. If you find this mark between the two points then you are all set!
- You should be checking your coolant level a few times per year to make sure that there are no leaks in your system.
- If you find that you are low on coolant you will need to top it off. Engines take a 50/50 mixture of coolant and water, which allows your radiator the optimum boiling or freeze protection that your engine needs. You can generally purchase this premixed.
- To add the coolant, just unscrew the cap of the opaque overflow reservoir and add the mixture until it reaches the full mark.
- After that, all you need to do is replace the cap, make sure that it is on tight, and you're ready to go!
- Be sure to change your coolant every couple of years (following the manufacturer's recommendations).
- If you spill any on the ground you should make sure to wipe it up.
- Do not leave the container lying around.
- Follow the recommendations on the container to dispose of it properly.
- If you find that you are consistently filling your coolant and levels continue to be low, this may mean that you have a leak. This may be a minor fix (such as replacing the radiator hose) or it could be more serious.
- First, remove the dipstick from under the hood (if you are unsure as to where it is located, check your owner's manual).
- The handle is usually a bright colour (generally yellow or red).
- Remove the stick, wipe it clean, replace, and then remove it again.
- There are labels for "Warm" and "Cold" - Check the warm readings.
- If it is not full, slowly fill the fluid up a little at a time, and continue to measure with the dipstick.
- To fill the fluid, you should use a funnel and pour it into the hole where you pulled the dipstick from. After filling, replace the dipstick, and after a few moments remove to confirm that it has been done correctly.
- If you experience a pulsing or jerking from the brake, it is far more likely that it was caused by a defect in the brake rotor or drum than from the anti-lock system. A warped rotor or out-of-round drum can cause pronounced pulsating in the brake pedal.
- The failure of the pad to retract is not uncommon. In older drum systems, the brake shoes are pulled back from the drum by strong springs. But in a disc brake system, the pads are pulled back from the rotor (or disc) by the resiliency of rubber seals. As these seals age or are damaged by contaminated brake fluid, they can fail to do their job. The result is that the pad will ride against the rotor and wear out prematurely.
- If your rotor is warped, it can cause the pad to wear out even without a failure of the rubber seal. A warped rotor will wobble as it rotates, thereby scraping the pad as it turns. Eventually the pad wears out and the metal backing plate will damage the metal rotor.
- If your brakes are not as responsive as they should be or if the pedal "sinks" to toward the floor, this could be an indication of a leak in the braking system. It could be an air leak (in the brake hose) or a brake fluid leak. One telltale sign of a brake fluid leak is the presence of a small puddle of fluid when the car is parked. Brake fluid looks similar to fresh motor oil, but with a less "slimy" texture.
- Another possible problem is the master cylinder. The master cylinder's cup seals or the cylinder bore itself may be worn. Internal leaking or bypassing cup seals must be considered any time vehicles brake pedal is fading to the floor. This fading pedal with no external leak foudn is a common master cylinder symptom caused by these cup seals. The result will be a loss of hydraulic pressure. The vehicle will creep at stop lights as the brake pedal fades toward the floorboard.
- This loud metallic sound means that you have worn down the pads completely. The grinding or growling noise is caused by the two pieces of metal (the disc and the caliper) rubbing together. This can "score" or scratch your rotors, creating an uneven surface. If this happens, do not be surprised if your mechanic tells you that the brakes and rotors need to be "turned" (a process that evens out the rotor surface) or even replaced.
- A vibration or pulsating brake pedal is often a symptom of warped rotors (but can also indicate that your vehicle is out of alignment). The vibration can feel similar to the feedback in the brake pedal during a panic stop in a vehicle equipped with anti-lock brakes.
- It is a sign of warped rotors if the vibration occurs during braking situations when the anti-lock brakes are not engaged. Warped rotors are caused by severe braking for long periods, such as when driving down a steep mountain or when towing. Tremendous amounts of friction are created under these conditions, heating up the rotors and causing them to warp. The vibration is felt because the brake pads are not able to grab the surface evenly. If you drive in these conditions, make sure to stop periodically to allow your brakes to cool off.
- PLAN YOUR TRIPS - Try to accomplish multiple things in one trip. You can also try to car pool or walk to your destination. This won't decrease fuel consumption but will help you drive less, which means less gas.
- DO NOT SPEED - If you are on the highway driving 100 kms/hour instead of 112 kms/hour, it will save you 2.5-4.5 MPG over the duration of your trip. Try using your cruise control as it reduces fuel consumption by maintaining a constant speed.
- THROTTLE LESS - Accelerate and brake with ease. You will save on fuel as well as wear and tear on your brakes.
- DON'T WARM UP - Thanks to new technology, most modern vehicles only really need 30 seconds to get warm.
- WINDOWS UP - Having the windows down on the highway can decrease fuel economy by up to 10%.
- OIL - Use only the manufacturer's specified motor oil, and change it per factory recommendations.
- WEIGHT - The less weight in your vehicle the better fuel economy you'll get. An extra 100 pounds increases fuel economy by 1 to 2 percent.
- TIRES - Make sure your tires are set to recommended pressure at all times as this can increase fuel economy by as much as 3.3 percent.
- FILTERS - A clean air filter and fuel filter will allow the air and fuel to flow unencumbered and can help you save up to 10% on fuel costs.
- SENSORS - The oxygen sensors, engine emissions system, and evaporative emissions control systems can all decrease fuel mileage by 20 percent or more if damaged.
- GAS - The owner's manual will list the correct octane gasoline you should use for your vehicle. Purchase recommended grade of fuel as premium grade fuel won't improve fuel economy in vehicles designed for regular octane.
- The first possibility is that there is a refridgerant leak. The leak may be found in the evaporator, condensor or hose in which case you should bring your car to a mechanic to be repaired.
- Another reason that your air conditioner may not be blowing cool air is because the compressor has gone bad. The compressor pressurizes the refridgerant and pumps it throughout the A/C's necessary components. Because everything revolves around the compressor, if it is faulty, then the air conditioning will not work correctly. Usually there will be a loud noise when you attempt to turn on your air conditioner if the compressor is broken.
- Finally, another problem that may be occuring with your air conditioning system is that there is a clogged orifice tube. This is located between the condenser in the front of the radiator, and the evaporator in the passenger compartment. If there is an obstruction in the tube then it will stop the refridgerant from reaching the evaporator, causing your system to blow warm air.
- Looking at the owner's manual.
- Checking the manufacturer's website. Most find higher-level octane gas to be desirable because they feel that it keeps their vehicle engines running smoother and they feel it is a cleaner fuel. The truth is that although it may be cleaner, most engines will notice minimal difference with the higher gas grade.
- In the past, it was standard for oil changes to occur every 5000 to 6000 kms, or three months, whichever came first. Now, that standard does not always apply. Oil quality has improved over the years, and the automotive industry has begun to take driver's travel and driving habits into account when making recommendations. As such, how often you change your oil should depend on your personal driving habits.
- If you use the car only for short trips on city streets, particularly in the cold weather, you probably should have the oil changed every three months. Why? On short trip, the engine doesn't reach its proper operating temperature, which can cause condensation of water inside the crankcase and oil can become diluted by gasoline.
- If you mostly use your vehicle for occasional longer trips, it is acceptable to wait six months or more to change the oil.
- One thing you should absolutely consider when deciding when your oil needs to be changed is your vehicle's warranty. Many manufacturers specifically require the warranty holder to change the oil based on time. If this is the case for you, it is worth it to change the oil according to the guidelines until the warranty expires. If your engine needs a warranty covered repair in the future, your manufacturer might decline to cover it if you didn't follow their recommended timeline for oil changes. To avoid a headache, follow their recommendations.
- Another reason why the manufacturer's recommendations are worth considering is that the automaker has done extensive testing on your vehicle's engine to define the recommendation. Their recommendations are based on lab and real world driving to determine how it performs under many different conditions. Through that testing, they have developed a set of guidelines for maintenance and the frequency of oil changes.
- Look for build up in the form of a whitish or blue residue around the terminal - removing this can sometimes resolve the issue. DO NOT TOUCH THIS POWDER AS IT CAN OFTEN CONTAIN DRIED SULFURIC ACID, WHICH WILL CORRODE YOUR SKIN.
- Verify that the battery has been given the chance to recharge by driving constantly for 30 minutes with minimal electrical use, including not running the A/C.
- Check the alternator. Some cars also have a battery meter, with the engine running, the alternator usually maintains a charge close to 13.8-14.2 volts in a properly functioning charging system. The battery should have 12.4 - 12.8 volts with the engine off and no accessory load.
- Set up a secure working environment. Park on a flat, level surface at a safe distance from traffic sparks or open flames. Put on the parking brake. Put on gloves and safety goggles.
- Remove the cigarette lighter and plug the memory keeper into socket. If you don't have a memory keeper make sure you have all the PINs for your electronic equipment before you start. You may wish to check your owner's manual to see what devices will be affected.
- Locate the battery - The battery should be located in an accessible part on either side of the vehicle's frame. The battery is a rectangular box with two cables attached to it. In some european vehicles the battery is under the matting in the trunk, or inside the fender of the wheel well.
- Identify battery terminals - Locate the positive and the negative terminals. The positive terminal will have a plus sign and the negative terminal will have a minus sign.
- Disconnect the negative terminal - Loosen the negative clamp with a wrench and slide it off of the terminal. It is important that you disconnect the negative terminal socket before the positive terminal socket, otherwise you may short circuit the positive terminal to a grounded part of the car.
- Disconnect the positive terminal.
- Remove the vehicle battery and put in the new battery.
- Reconnect the positive and negative terminals.
- Tighten the clamps using a wrench.
- Close the hood - Shut the hood of your vehicle firmly and start your car.
- Check that all the electronic devices are working properly.
- REMEMBER TO PROPERLY DISPOSE OF THE OLD BATTERY.
- To start, the old wipers must be removed. To do this, pull the entire wiper away from the windshield and it should hold itself up. Be careful though, as the arm is made of metal and may scratch the glass of the windshield.
- Use on hand to hold the arm, and the other to depress the small tab located on the underside of the wiper where it meets the metal arm.
- Slide it off by pulling from the centre toward the bottom of the arm.
- Once removed, gently place the arm against the windshield. In order to prevent any damage, make sure that it does not snap itself back.
- First, line the two pieces up to ensure that it simply clicks on.
- Look at the side of the wiper that attaches to the arm. You will see that it is flat and has a curve across the top. Rotate this clip until the curve is pointing towards the wiper blade.
- Hold the wiper upside down next to the arm where they match up and put the arm in between the sides of the wiper.
- Make sure that they open end of the curve is facing the clip, and pull the wiper upward so that the rounded edge slides into the hook. Pull it on tightly to click it into place.
- Go to the home screen.
- Choose "Settings".
- Choose "General".
- Choose "Bluetooth".
- Exhaust Problems
- Holes in the Air Intake Valve
- A general loss of power in the vehicle
- It may also occur in the winter months when vehicles have a more difficult time starting and may shake when the engine is turned over.
- Engine
- Transmission
- Driveshaft
- Any of the internal workings of the engine
- The sensors that are generally included in a powertrain warranty provide input and output to and from the powertrain control module (PCM).
- Some sensors send the computer information, which transcribes the information and sends it to output sensors.
- They all work together to make the car run cleanly, smoothly, and efficiently. If a mechanical problem arises within the powertrain and it is covered under the terms of the warranty, either the manufacturer or dealership will have to pay for the repairs to the powertrain. What is covered under the warranty varies greatly between vehicles, manufacturers, and dealerships. When looking to purchase a vehicle you should review this carefully and be sure to understand all of the terms and conditions within the warranty.
- How long do you plan on keeping the vehicle.
- How many km's you believe you will drive during that period.
- Is the extended warranty from the manufacturer, the dealer, or a third party provider.
- There are differences in deductible. Some are pay per visit, or per repair, or none at all. Be sure you understand the difference before you buy.
- Some extended warranties are transferrable should you decide to sell the car before the end of the warranty. Find out the details.
- What exactly is covered? Does it cover breakdown as well as wear and tear?